If your concrete barbecue manual or the product listing says you need Barbeglue, you are reading a brand name rather than a general type of glue. Barbeglue is the name Sarom, an Italian maker of concrete and masonry barbecues, gives to a cartridge adhesive meant for joining the pieces of its barbecues. Retail listings for several flat-pack concrete models in the UK and elsewhere repeat the same line, “Barbeglue will be required,” which is why people end up searching the word on its own and getting confusing results.
It is not Barge glue, and it is not an ordinary silicone
Search engines often drift toward Barge cement, a rubber-based contact cement used mainly by leather workers, because the two names look alike. They are unrelated products. Barbeglue is the trade name printed on Sarom’s technical data sheet for a product called Isocoll ECO 6056, which the sheet describes as a one-part silyl-terminated polymer adhesive-sealant. In plain terms, it comes out of the tube as a paste, reacts with moisture in the air, and turns into a firm but flexible bond.
That detail explains a warning that appears in Sarom’s assembly instructions, written in capitals: do not use silicone glue. The same manual says to fix the elements together with Barbeglue or with a refractory mortar, and Sarom’s Italian text adds that high-strength, fast-setting cements should be avoided. A hardware-store silicone tube looks similar but is a different chemistry, and the manufacturer clearly does not want it in your barbecue.
The product is not a barbecue specialty in its own right. The data sheet lists a much wider field of use, including vehicles, caravans, containers, plumbing and roofing joints, and a long list of materials such as brick, cement, stone, steel, wood and glass. Sarom has simply put it under its own name for barbecue kits.
What the data sheet says, in numbers
The figures below come from the manufacturer’s data sheet, dated March 2021 (version 4). They matter mainly because they set the limits of how you should work with the product.
| Property | Value on the data sheet |
|---|---|
| Colour | White or grey paste |
| Tack-free time (23 °C, 50% humidity) | 30 minutes |
| Cure speed | About 3 mm per 24 hours |
| Shore A hardness | 45 |
| Tensile strength | 2.10 N/mm² |
| Elongation at break | About 400% |
| Application temperature | +5 to +50 °C |
| Temperature resistance once cured | −40 to +100 °C |
| Cartridge size | 290 ml (box of 12); 600 ml bags on request |
| Shelf life | 24 months, stored at 5–25 °C |
The elongation figure is the interesting one. A bond that can stretch several times its length before failing is useful on a heavy concrete structure that sits outdoors, because the pieces expand, contract and settle through seasons, and a rigid joint would crack. The data sheet also says the adhesive stays elastic after curing, resists UV light, and can be painted over, which fits the instruction to coat the finished barbecue with exterior paint.
How the assembly works in practice
Sarom’s instructions are short, and the order matters more than speed. The manufacturer asks you to start from a solid, perfectly level concrete base large enough to hold the whole barbecue, then build the pieces in the numbered order shown in the diagram for your model. A spirit level check after each element is part of the manual, and it is worth taking seriously, because a slightly tilted lower course carries upward through every layer you add.
For each joint, the manual’s steps are straightforward:
- Remove dust and dirt from both faces and dry them if they are wet. The data sheet adds that oil, grease and rust also weaken adhesion.
- Apply the Barbeglue to both parts, then place the elements as the diagram shows.
- Fit the corner bracket with its screws and wait 15 minutes before moving on.
- Repeat the process for the worktop, aligning it with the barbecue body and again using adhesive plus the corner bracket.
You will need a caulking gun, since the data sheet calls for manual or pneumatic guns. If your model has a hearth built from three pieces, the manual has a specific instruction: place the grill between the two side pieces, join them with the adhesive or refractory mortar, and wait for it to harden before continuing.
How much to buy, and whether it comes in the box
This is the question buyers ask most and the one the manufacturer documents answer least. Sarom’s manual uses the phrase “if included in your model,” which means some barbecues ship with a tube and others do not. For one 88 cm wide model, the seller of a Garden Grills barbecue answered a customer’s question about quantity with a single word of advice: one tube. That is one seller’s answer about one model, so check your own manual and parts list rather than treating it as a rule for every barbecue.
If you do need to buy separately, one French retailer sells a 290 ml tube of special barbecue adhesive, and another listing offers an assembly kit with the adhesive, a bucket of white exterior render, a roller and a sponge. Prices vary by country and seller and change often, so none is quoted here.
The heat question
The cured adhesive is rated up to 100 °C on its data sheet, and a charcoal firebox can run far hotter than that. Sarom’s own manual allows either Barbeglue or a refractory mortar to join the hearth pieces, so the safest course is to follow the diagram and parts list for your exact model. Where a model supplies refractory plates for the firebox, the manual says to lay them in the hearth, resting them in place, rather than gluing them. It is also reasonable to keep the adhesive away from surfaces that face the fire directly, since the data sheet’s temperature ceiling is the only heat figure the manufacturer publishes for it.
Mistakes that shorten a barbecue’s life
The most common error is lighting the barbecue too soon. Sarom’s instruction is to wait at least 48 hours for it to dry completely before first use. The second is skipping the paint: because the barbecue lives outdoors, the manual says it is necessary to protect it with paint suitable for exteriors.
Weather during the build matters too. The data sheet sets the application range at +5 to +50 °C, so a cold winter morning is a poor time to build. Storage counts as well, because an opened cartridge that sits for months will cure inside the nozzle. Finally, the manufacturer recommends a polythene cover whenever the barbecue is idle, especially in winter, and says it will last longer for it. Sarom’s text also states that it declines responsibility for damage if its instructions are not followed.
One more caution comes from the data sheet itself: the maker advises a compatibility test on any unusual paint or surface before committing, because the range of coatings on the market is too large to guarantee every case.
The short version
Barbeglue is a flexible, moisture-curing construction adhesive sold under Sarom’s name for assembling concrete barbecues, and it works best when you follow the maker’s own rules: a level base, clean dry surfaces, the right glue rather than silicone, exterior paint, and patience before the first fire. For the details that vary, such as how many tubes your model needs and what goes in the firebox, your barbecue’s own manual is the document that counts.
This article is general information based on manufacturer documents and retailer listings. Always follow the instructions supplied with your specific barbecue.
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I’m Muhammad Ubaid, founder of YBR Magazine. I research and write detailed guides on America’s National Parks — covering entry fees, permits, best times to visit, and planning tips — using official NPS sources and up-to-date information.
